Costa Rica is the ultimate un-vacation if you forego the touristy resorts and take the path less traveled.  We ventured to Mal País—Spanish translation “bad country”— at the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula.

Our mode of travel was a collective shuttle from Liberia to our little cabana at Vista de Olas on the beach of Santa Teresa, which took the better part of a day...

but proved to be an adventure all in itself with several interesting stops and changes of shuttles along the way.

Our lodging accommodations were at Vista de Olas an adult-only resort located on a hill just outside St. Teresa. Vista de Olas (view of the waves) is the very definition of “off the beaten path”—it takes a little extra effort to get there, but once you do it is well worth it.

Yes, the driveway is really, really steep and a 4-wheel drive vehicle is mandatory to make it all the way to the top—we had a few drivers stop ¾ of the way there and leave us to negotiate the rest of the journey.

Yes, the dry season in Costa Rica is really dry—it’s extremely dusty no doubt about it. Thick clouds of dust drift over the dirt paths that constitute "roads” in Mal País, but from our experience Vista de Olas is a destination that is an adventure well worth taking.

Pack your sturdy outdoor, hiking clothes—leave your beach resort sandals and evening wear at home. Forget the high heals. Instead pack your Tevas and sports gear. Include a bandana or two (worn bank-robber bandit style) for your ATV rides and walks to town to keep the dust at bay. If you enjoy exploring you will have the time of your life.

If you appreciate an intimate setting you will love this place. Roger Zaugg, the owner, and his family are very relaxed hosts who will go out of their way to make your stay a memorable one. Roger has paid close attention to the details. We felt like guests at their home instead of like tourists.

My husband and I have traveled to many locations in Mexico, but were wowed by the view and loved the non-resorty intimacy. The infinity pool bar and accommodating dining palapa overlooked the rugged coastline. The individual villas were every bit as charming as they look on the website, and the views were even more breathtaking.

My husband commented that this was the first time he didn’t feel like we were on “vacation,” but were actually experiencing what it was like to live as a local. We bought the Living Social deal and were pleased with every one of the extras—from the ATV ride to the waterfall and butterfly gardens to the BBQ dinner to the canopy tour of the rainforest. We were also pleasantly surprised to find that the breakfast included in the package was not just the usual toast, juice and coffee, but an ever-changing fresh fruit plate and a different main course offering every day from omelets to pancakes to French toast to traditional Tico rice and beans with either fried or scrambled eggs.

It was truly my Globe Trekker experience. There were knee-deep streams to ford and encounters with cows and chickens running alongside us as we headed toward Montezuma.

Roger’s sons and surf champs, Swen and Mikey, escorted us on the Living Social package ATV tour and were charming tour guides as we had the time of our lives riding through the Costa Rican backcountry.

There were knee-deep streams to ford...

Giant Bayan trees and encounters with cows and chickens running alongside us as we headed toward Montezuma.

We buzzed along dusty dirt paths...

and stopped to hike through the rain forest...

to tour a butterfly garden...

and swim and dive (that's my husband - not me!) into a 3-tiered waterfall.

The beaches are postcard-photo worthy—wear your hiking sandals as these are not the fine sand beaches of Florida or the Mayan Riviera—there are rough moon-like surfaces made of lava-formed rocks and sharp coral when you venture away from the beaches of St. Theresa.

You can snorkel, rent boogie boards or try your hand at surfing to tackle the sometimes-formidable waves, and walk many solitary miles of driftwood-strewn, rocky, picturesque shores.

Make sure to go past the fishing village to the small, secluded beach for some great views and the opportunity to watch the locals get their daily catch.

Hire a cab to Manzanillo for a day.

It’s inexpensive and there’s plenty of unspoiled beach to explore with a lone lobsterman or a pair of banana harvesters along the way—

Be ware that the wide flat expansive of sand quickly narrows and all but disappears as the tide comes in. Catch dinner with the locals at Atardecer Dorado the main restaurant on the beach where you can eat your fill of fresh caught langostinos and camerones a la plancha (off the grill).

There are many more beautiful places to see and explore! Muchas gracias por su hospitalidad, Roger, Heidi, Swen, Mikey, Svetlana, Rosa, Eva, Dustin, Luis, y Carlos –Hasta luego!

Vista de Olas is the place to be in Mal País.

Especially to catch the gorgeous sunsets from Vista de Olas, the lovely hidden oasis overlooking the ocean below.

Life is short.  Too short to keep returning to the same vacation locations over and over. So many places, so little time is my mantra.  At least that is my usual travel policy. And why I tend to gravitate toward new locations. To try new tastes, view new vistas, explore the exotic, and uncover the unknown.  Yet I was pleasantly pleased to find that time can make the old new again, especially when several years have passed between visits. The once familiar takes on a whole new scene and becomes another place entirely.  With just a touch of pentimento* thrown in to make uncovering past haunts a secret thrill.

And so it was with my return trip to my very first Mexican city—Mazatlán.  The second time around I even learned the correct pronunciation is Mazatlán with the accent on the last syllable instead of the Americanized MAZ-at-lan.

Mazatlán “seen again” was like a big mysterious puzzle that I needed to take apart and then put back together to discover the original pieces—retracing footprints I left behind so long ago in my early twenties. 

The whole city has simply exploded. Mega developments and luxurious resorts have sprung out of the north...

While sections of the old downtown or Centro Histórico have undergone a colorful revival.

And it seems suburban sprawl with its requisite concrete and tin storefronts and graffiti has filled in just about everything in between.

*Pentimento—“Old paint on a canvas… sometimes becomes transparent. When that happens it is possible… to see the original lines: a tree will show through a woman's dress, a child makes way for a dog… That is called pentimento because the painter "repented," changed his mind. (It) is a way of seeing and then seeing again.”
Lillian Hellman

EAT.    STAY.   LOVE.

EAT :

Surf’s Up Café—at El Sol La Vida north of Emerald Bay.
Don’t let this self-proclaimed surf-style café’s laid-back style fool you. The breakfast and lunch-only menu features fresh ingredients and healthy twists on Mexican standards with mouthwatering results. The view from your table is just what you ordered—a stunning sea, sparkling sun and miles of sand. Take a taxi from town or walk the beach from Emerald Bay.

Topolo—Plazuela Machado, Centro Histórico.
Come for the pork shank stay for the live music and flaming desserts. This home-style restaurant has a Minneapolis connection. The chef is also the founder of Topolo Tacos food truck. Check it out if you are in Minnesota in the summer.

Cilantro's—Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán. Stroll into Cilantro's for casual elegance, right on the beach. Enjoy a Pacífico or a refreshing margarita a las rocas con sal at happy hour and stay for the sunset.

Pedro y Lola—Plazuela Machado, Centro Histórico. The name commemorates local legends—Pedro Infante the movie star and Lola Beltrán a ranchera singer. Known for creatively authentic seafood dishes and its location in a charmingly restored 19th-century building right on the romantic Plazuela Machado, the service although slow, is friendly and the fare is worth the wait. Music plays inside and out.

The Bistro—Pueblo Bonito, Emerald Bay. This was our favorite of the Emerald Bay restaurants. We sat outside on the veranda with a night-time view of the pool. Both the steak and the shrimp entrees were well prepared and the service was impeccable.

Panchos—Golden Zone. A classic, right on the beach. After a super grande Mexican omelet or huevos rancheros at a table overlooking the beach with para-sailers and horseback riders and the islands in the distance, you will be adequately fueled to start your Golden Zone walk from here just like we did.

El Capitano—Golden Zone. A favorite beach bar and restaurant known by word of mouth for its seafood dishes and local fare. El Capitano is frequented by the locals so you know the food is good and authentic.

Las Zarapes—Golden Zone. No website, but just ask your taxi driver. He will know where to take you for traditional Mexican food and sensational margaritas.

Mr. Lionso—Playa Bruja or Witch's Beach. Often referred to as just Brujas, it's home of the absolute largest, most flavorful shrimp I have ever eaten. I could not finish them all and had to give a couple away and for me that is quite a sacrifice. Note of caution: The margaritas are also super large and not watered down like the ones back home and you get two for the price of one, if you go during happy hour.  Ooo, honey watch out!

And many more yet untested and unexplored. Like this little Italian restaurant on the Plazuela Machado...Cuando regreso. When I return.

Be adventurous and sample the local refreshments from one of the many street vendors surrounding the plaza outside the Cathedral Basílica de la Inmaculada Concepción.

Have you tried cacahuates? Mexican peanuts come in many different flavors. My favorite are the salted lime ones with what I think is a hint of fire roasted peppers.

STAY :

Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay—Our stay as guests at the exclusive Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay just 20-minutes north of the city center on its own private beach was a first-class ticket to paradise. This is the quintessential all-inclusive Mexican resort owned by the Ernesto Coppel-Kelly family (Google him). 20 acres of lush green gardens and palm trees surround the estate with a stream stocked with bright orange and yellow Coy winding through the verdant grounds teaming with wild birds and even a black swan and a flock of flamingos. The resort features 3 gorgeous outdoor swimming pools, 3 swanky restaurants, a trendy piano bar, and a full-service spa. 

Website photos truly don’t do it justice.  The picture book resort is modeled after Old Mazatlán’s historic architecture. If the people weren’t so genuine, you might think you were on a movie set. Every detail has been carefully executed. The whole thing is done in neoclassical old world opulence. From peacocks and parrots in the front entry cages to fountains and tiles copied from Museo Casa Machado a former colonial-era mansion built in 1885 and now a museum. 

The soothing yellow color palette against stark, whitewashed walls strikes the perfect contrast against the startlingly big blue Mexican sky. 20 acres of lush green gardens and palm trees surround the estate with a stream stocked with bright orange and yellow Coy winding through the verdant grounds teaming with wild birds and even a black swan and a flock of flamingos. The resort features 3 gorgeous outdoor swimming pools, 3 swanky restaurants, a trendy piano bar, and a full-service spa. 

The Master Suite Rooms are palatial with the most comfortable beds I have ever slept on anywhere in Mexico—pillow top with down comforters. The décor is upscale Mexican beach colonial with the traditional and oh so relaxing color scheme of yellow tile, aqua accents and sky blue walls. And the views are stunning; each unit overlooks the coastline with nothing but miles of sandy seaweed strewn beach and the gray blue Pacific Ocean as far as the eye can see.

Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán—Just steps away from the Golden Zone beach front, tucked slightly away from the rest of the hotels along that stretch is the original Pueblo Bonito. We sat on the beach for happy hour. Sipped icy salted margaritas from Cilantro the hotel’s beach-side restaurant. And watched the sunset (“El Set“) sink over the ocean silhouetting the beach vendors as they headed home for the day.

Rooms are more traditional Mexican in style and slightly dated compared to the elegance of Emerald Bay. But each has a balcony with an ocean view overlooking the lovely pool area and two charming restaurants. The beds are equally comfortable and the overall setting is intimate and charming. During the day, the beach is lively with beach sports and watercraft available for rent.

OTHER OPTIONS :

The Jonathon Boutique Hotel—Centro Histórico. We checked out this small upscale boutique hotel located just across from the street from the Angela Peralta Theater around the corner from the Pazuela Machado. It's in our plans to stay here when we 'revisit' Mazatlán again.

Casa de Leyendas—Centro Histórico. This B&B was voted a top vacation rental on FlipKey.  Casa de Leyendas is noted for its comfortable beds and stands out for its elegant wood furniture, tile work and inviting common spaces, including an ocean-view rooftop lounge.

Hotel Machado—Plazauela Machado, Centro Histórico. The Hotel Machado is smack dab in the center of Historic Downtown and its facade is the centerpiece of the square. Double rooms are advertised at just 750 pesos.

Loro De Oro Inn—After spending a week at the Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay, friends of ours retreat to this intimate, personal little inn. You'll fall in love with this converted grand old home and its beautiful tropical courtyard with swimming pool, Jacuzzi, lounge chairs, barbecue and dining area. Just 100 yards off the Plaza Machado, it's within walking distance from the many quaint sidewalk cafes and restaurants, the beach, cathedral, museums, post office, banks and the central market.  Note to self: Staying here when we return again!

LOVE :

A walk on the beach—Camino a la playa
Whether you want a relaxing stroll or a vigorous walk, grab your sunscreen and visor and a bottle of water and head down the beach for a sun-filled day of surf and sand.

From Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay, you can pack a picnic lunch or plan a stop at the Surf’s Up Café, the only real option this side of Emerald Bay, but well worth the walk.

We snuck up on a good-sized iguana sunning himself on the beach and glimpses of ghost crabs scuttling into their holes as the tide rolled back. We gathered our share of seashells and when we passed the last of the ocean front homes, we even found a beached and very ripe sea lion the size of a full-grown horse!

After our 2-hour hike, we were ready to catch the sunset and happy hour at Surf’s Up before heading back to our room at Emerald Bay.  The fish tacos were a treat—so fresh, colorful and fun. We wished we could have made reservations for one of their special event dinners, but this was our ultima dia. Hasta luego…(Until next time).

Shop Mazatlán's Central Market 'El Mercado Pino Suarez' for fresh fruits, meat, or seafood, or look for that one-of-a-kind souvenir in hundreds of booths filled with leather goods, handmade pottery, and colorful traditional dresses and shirts.

Day tripping—
Take an open-air ride in a “pulmonia”*—Mazatlan’s fringed golf-cart-like vehicles powered by Volkswagen engines--instead of the usual taxi cab to Mazatlan’s Centro Histórico (Historic Downtown) and get a free tour when you speak “un poquito de” (little bit of) broken Spanish to the driver.

*Legend has it that the name "pulmonia"—literally translated as pneumonia—came from rival taxicab drivers jealous of the business the new vehicles were taking away. They began telling passengers that they would catch pneumonia if they took a ride in them.

Or take a guided tour booked through your hotel service. There are many tour operators to choose from—one of the largest is Vista Tours. They host expeditions to the city and the country.

Visit Pazuela Machado in Centro Histórico and see the teatro and museum. Come back to the square at night. Grab an early reservation at one of the downtown restaurants like Pedro y Lola’s and be serenaded by live (and sometimes competing) music while you dine alfresco on the street.

On Fridays and Saturdays, the city closes off the streets to traffic and restaurant owners fill the streets with tables and chairs. Stroll the square and listen to a mariachi band, watch children delight in getting their faces painted, buy a rose for your sweetheart from a cart, and be amazed by spray paint artists and jugglers.

Be sure to take in these sites:

The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception,  built in 1890 this twin-peaked Catholic church is a gilded masterpiece with a triple altar and murals of angels floating overhead.

Angela Peralta Theater named after an internationally famous soprano who was born in Mazatlan in the 19th century this restored historic monument features a variety of performances ranging from the state symphony to a local children's chorus to visiting jazz bands on its elegant stage.

The Museo Casa Machado is a colonial-era mansion turned into a museum providing a glimpse of early life in this part of Mexico. Be sure to ask to watch the movie before viewing the rooms to put it all into perspective and request a guide.

A walk on the Zona Dorado (the Golden Zone)—
Take at walk from Valentino’s nightclub to the Pueblo Bonito, Mazatlán. My memory holds a vision of a sparser beach city with some grassy spaces between restaurants and hotels with not much north of El Cid.

The Zona Dorada with Valentino’s on the southern end toward downtown and the Malecón was more spread out back in the 80's with little development between the disco and the first block of hotels.

The only thing that seems about the same is the number of beach vendors selling everything from fruit and jewelry to para-sail rides and fishing tours.  The youngest are kids no more than 4 or 5 years old carrying small boxes filled with little 2-piece Chiclets gum packets for a couple pesos each. “Chicle, chicle” they sing-song as they run from tourist to tourist with fetching smiles and sun-kissed faces.

Other Things to Do:

         Para-sail and horseback rides

         Catamarans and fishing tours

Create your own Day of the Dead adventure—
Visit a cemetery for a self-guided photo crawl. For some reason Mexican cemeteries fascinate me. Filled with old statuary, charming angels, artificial flowers, and crumbling stone.

Often neglected, always colorful, at times grotesque, I find something to like about them all.

Read the inscriptions and take plenty of pictures, you won’t be disappointed. Leave a small donation in the box at the gate or with the caregiver. Be respectful and don’t walk on the graves.